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NOŠNJE


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Mon
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12
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2018

Azurirano
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11:27:46 AM GMT


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NOŠNJE

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(nastavak iz prošlog broja)
Spreda se na suknju opasivala pregača kecelja. Stariji primerci bili su pravougaonog, ili blago trapezoidnog kroja i nekoliko centimetara kraći od suknje. Pri dnu je bilo ušiveno nekoliko vodoravnih nabora falti, ili prišivena pozamanterijska vrpca. Najčešće je bila sašivena od lister svile smeđe boje s cvetnim motivima, ornamentima, ili sitnim belim prugama. Na dobrom glasu i ceni bile su kecelje od svile koja se zvala golubija guša čiji su se tonovi prelivali od bele, preko svetlosive, zelenkaste do gotovo plave boje. Bile su popularne kod mlađeg sveta, jer su mogle da se kombinuju s više različitih boja sukanja i bluza. Skraćivanjem sukanja, proporcionalno se skraćivala i dužina kecelja. Boja suknje i kecelje bila je u određenom skladu i zavisila je od životne dobi. Mlađe žene nosile su svetlije tonove (bež, plavu, ružičastu...) , dok su starije nosile tamnije tonove (teget, tamnosivu, smeđu...). Žene starije od šezdeset godina najčešće su nosile jednobojne crne suknje i potpuno crne, ili tamne kecelje sa sitnim floralnim, odnosno geometrijskim ornamentima.

Preko opleća u svečanim prilikama nosila se donja bluza nohtrekla. Bila je sašivena od finog belog pamučnog platna, ukrašena šlingerajem uz donju ivicu rukava i tela, te posebno bogato oko grudnog izreza. Šlinga je virila centimetar, dva, ispod donje ivice haljetka rekle. Na nekim primercima oko vrata je bila izrađena bogata čipka, koja se nabirala na uzicu i izdizala po nekoliko centimetara uz vrat vireći iznad zakopčanog haljetka. Preko opleća i nohtrekle u svečanim prilikama oblačio se haljetak dugih rukava. Dostizao je do bokova i bio sašiven od istog materijala kao i suknja. Uz najčešće korišćene nazive bluza i rekla, koristili su se još i nazivi vetl za haljetak strukiranog kroja, te konštak za bluzu nenaglašenog struka. Prošireni donji deo na strukiranoj bluzi zvao se šesl. Vetl je na grudima bio ukrašen čipkastim trakama širine tri do pet centimetara, koje su najčešće bile prišivene od ramena do struka u obliku latiničnog slova “v“. Time se još više naglašavao ženski struk. Nestrukirani konštak imao je uzdužne nabore falte koje su se nabirale ispod grudi. Gornji deo takođe je bio ukrašen pozamanterijskim trakama.

Po hladnijem vremenu oko rekle ogrtao se oko vrata kapižon - velika vunena marama s kraćim resama. Dijagonalno se presavijala, krajevi su se spreda ukrštali, te se pozadi vezali na leđima u visini struka. Najčešće je bila jednobojna. Mlađe žene nosile su ružičaste, zelene, plave, a starije teget, smeđe, braon, ili crne kapižone. Po uzoru na Nemice, i mlađe Hrvatice takođe su nosile marame od finijih materijala, najčešće svilene s dugim resama.

Za odlazak u crkvu i drugim svečanim prilikama nosile su se crne cipele s manjom petom, bele pamučne čarape fabričke izrade, duge tik iznad kolena.

Devojčice i devojke do udaje su bile gologlave. Kosu su češljale u punđu koju su slagale na potiljku. Oko punđe vezale su svilenu, ili satensku traku ukrašenu metalnim fliterima i šljokicama i malom satenskom mašnom u raznim bojama. Tom trakom prikrivale su ukosnice ornadle kojima je punđa bila pričvršćena.

(nastaviće se)

ARHIVA: BROJ 220

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